If You Had Been Here

Above the high altar in the Church of Lazarus

The day began with Mass and breakfast, the usual pattern. Rodney then presented a lecture on the places we would visit today to give us some background and acquaint us with the directions we would be traveling.

We boarded the bus and headed towards Jericho, one of the most ancient cities still in existence. I know it does not look like it did when Joshua fought the battle thereof. It is on the West Bank so we had to go through a check-point. 

We didn’t stop there but we did travel by the traditional site of the story of the Good Samaritan.
Instead we went directly to the Jordan River to the place where, by tradition, Jesus was baptized by his cousin John. At the headwaters the Jordan is clear. Here it is brown and muddy. In a short distance it will enter the Dead Sea.

There are platforms on both sides of the river so groups can gather as we did and hold their liturgies.  There was a sizable group of Chinese pilgrims who were entering the water. It was hard to tell if they were actually baptizing or just entering the water as a remembrance. The other side is in Jordan. The river is not nearly as wide as one would think.

Warren in the Jordan

We claimed our place, sang “On Jordan’s Bank the Baptist Cry,” and held the service of Renewal of 
Baptismal Vows. All those who wished then removed their footwear and could stand in the water while our chaplain blessed us with a sign of the cross using the water from the Jordan. It was a moving ceremony  in which to participate. We then had time for reflection and meditation. (Matthew 3:1-17)

The three flags

Looking around the area the reality of the present day is brought home.  There is a lot of barbed wire. There are signs warning of the mine field which surrounds the area. Three flags fly: that of Israel, that of the government agency which oversees some of the monuments, and that of the park service. There are signs of armed 

Watch out for the mines!

conflict. Thankfully nothing occurred while we were present. We’ve only heard gunshots at one time and that was on one of the first days. There are lots of guns around but we’ve seen no violence and it feels safe in the city of Jerusalem. 

Following our visit to the Jordan we stopped in Jericho to see the sycamore tree which is purported to be the one which Zacheus climbed to see Jesus.  There is no real way of dating it. We were told that sycamores do not have a ring structure which would help date it. (Luke 19:1-11)

As Jesus did following his baptism we went directly to the Mount of Temptation (Luke 4:1-13). This marks the sight of Jesus’ first temptation, to turn stones into bread. There is a monastery high up on 

Jackie giving Warren a ride

the hill. A restaurant has also been established on the mountainside which is reached by cable car. Following the reading of the Temptation story we had the opportunity to meditate and then to ride an alternative method of transportation.  Jackie the camel provided rides for all those who wanted. I took my second camel ride. It was not as long as the first in Egypt but the getting up and down was the same and brought back memories.

Our lunch stop was in Jericho and then we proceded to the Judean 

The Judean wilderness

Wilderness where Jesus traditionally went after his baptism. It is truly desolate and awesomely quiet (except for a few vendors with fine products to sell!). We spent 30 minutes in meditation which was a powerful experience.

Our final stop of the day was in Bethany, just a few miles from Jerusalem, at the church which commemorates the raising of Lazarus. It is a fairly recent structure built again on the ruins of a  Crusader church. It has no windows, the only light entering is from the dome. It is supposed to remind one of being in a tomb. 

The entrance to Lazarus's tomb

We had the opportunity to go up the hill and descend into the traditional tomb of Lazarus which one does by descending some very uneven and steep steps carved by the Crusaders, ducking under a stone lintel and finally standing upright in a small space where one can view the actual resting place of 

The stairs to the tomb of Lazarus

Lazarus. It brought home rather vividly the words of Martha, Lazarus’s sister, when Jesus finally appeared upon the scene: “Lord, if you had been here my brother would not have died.” It was an overwhelming experience.

The tomb of Lazarus

Back to Jerusalem for some rest before Evensong and a special dinner to celebrate Jane’s birthday. She is one of our course participants from Ohio and got to ride a camel for a birthday treat!