By Another Sea

Cable car landing at Masada.
Part of the fortress can be seen at the top.

Today, Saturday, was an optional excursion to Masada, Qumran and the Dead Sea. All of our course participants opted to go along. Throughout most of our journey the Dead Sea was in view.

A model of Masada

The fortress of Masada is an incredible place and an equally incredible story.  On a mountain top near the Dead Sea Herod built a palace and a fortress. There is a quarry atop the mountain which provided building materials. A system of cisterns was developed so that any rain water would run off into them. The closest spring is about 20 kilometers away so spring water was not an option. 

Fresco at Masada.
Line separates new from old construction.

Massive storage facilities were built to store the food necessary for a city atop a hill.

Today one ascends by cable car or by the “snake path” which literally winds itself up the mountain. Only the strong of heart and legs or those overcome with youth would attempt it. Each cable car holds 80 persons plus the operator. Masada is the second most important place for Jewish pilgrims to visit after Jerusalem.

Part of Herod's palace.

You’ve perhaps seen the movie or read the story. In summary, about 73 CE the Romans laid siege to Masada. They built a siege wall on the plain surrounding the mountain and a ramp so they could push their siege tower up against the wall. Once you’ve seen this you wonder how on earth this could be accomplished. They attacked the walls and breached them. The Jews numbered over 900. Rather than submit 

Lots drawn by the men.

themselves to Roman servitude each man killed his wife and children and then 10 men were chosen by lot to kill the other men. One of the ten was then to kill the other nine and then commit suicide. The lots they drew were found in the deserted fortress. 

The siege ramp built by the Romans.

The site is unique archeologically since no other city was built on top of it. There was a Byzantine monastery established there but that was built in an open area. Part of the fortress has been rebuilt. A line was drawn where the original walls stood so one can easily see what was reconstructed from what was standing. There are frescos and mosaic tiles that still exist. Herod was known for his buildings and this is certainly one of the most remarkable.

We journeyed to Qumran for lunch and then viewed the video and visited the site. This 

Looking across toward the Dead Sea.

is where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in the late 1940s. The whole of the Old Testament except for the book of Easter was discovered on scrolls hidden in the caves. In one of the last of the caves to be explored there were thousands and thousands of fragments of scrolls. It is surmised that this last cave could have been the library of the community which lived there.

Ritual bath at Qumran

The community had a rule and was deeply ascetic. They were constantly purifying themselves by ritual baths. There are considerable remains that give evidence of their life together.

The cave at Qumran
where thousand of fragments were born

Our last stop of the day was at a resort on the shore of the Dead Sea. The sea is far below sea level, I believe the lowest point on earth. The sea is at the bottom of the Jordan River. It is very salty and has numerous other minerals in the water which the river collected on its journey south. Those who go in the water are warned not to stay more than 20 minutes, not to get the water in their eyes or swallow any water, and if that happens seek out the first aid provider. Many coat themselves in the mud on the shore before going into the water. 

By the time we reached the Dead Sea the sky was overcast. The day had not been exceedingly warm even up to that point. I opted not to go all the way in but to go wading. The water did not smell as badly as I remember from being at the sea on the Jordanian side. Several of the group did go in and floated on their backs, all you can do while in the sea. 

It was an interesting day and pleasant to be away from the hustle and bustle of the city for a change. I could not believe the number of tour buses and tourists. I can’t imagine what crowds there must be during the high season.          

In the Dead Sea