Familiar views

Santa Maria in Agricola

Hopping a very crowded bus this morning (this, just after commenting on how light the traffic was on Saturday), two of us had a cozy trip to the Victor Emmanuel monument. The Romans have given it the nickname of the “wedding cake,” or the “typewriter.” It is enormous and impressively beautiful. 

Our destination was around in back of the monument to a church named Santa Maria in Aracoeli. There are scenes from the life of St. Bernardine of Siena, a favorite Franciscan saint, in fresco around the first chapel as one enters. It is lovely to see ancient art preserved.

Part of the Roman Forum

It is Saturday, and in Rome that is wedding day. Every church we entered was decorated for the nuptials coming up. We were not ejected from any place but the signs warned that one could not roam around during a wedding. Couples must have a civil marriage ceremony, and many choose a religious ceremony as well. A soloist was rehearsing as we entered this church.

Going out on one of the plazas one can view some of the iconic sites of ancient Rome since these buildings overlook the ancient forum and the colosseum. There are a lot of people since it is a perfectly lovely day with bright blue sky and sunshine. We have been fortunate with the weather. 

The piazza designed by Michaelangelo

Before descending to the level of the forum, we took time to admire the Campidoglio Plaza designed by Michaelangelo. The statue in the center is a much earlier work, but the pavement design is his. There is a statue of the twin founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus, on a pillar just off the piazza. 

Romulus and Remus

Ss. Cosmas and Damian

Down we went to see the Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian, another pair of Roman twins. As some of the material assembled for us states: “Rome loves Twins: it worshipped twin gods; it was founded by twin brothers. This church was formerly dedicated to Castor and Pollux, twin gods who personified the pagan conviction that men could become gods.” Later the emperor Diocletian had Cosmas and Damian executed as martyrs for the faith. The building formerly dedicated to Castor and Pollux after time became the church dedicated to these two brothers.

The Colosseum and the Arch

Walking further we passed the Colosseum, a triumphal arch and several tourists buses disgorging or picking up passengers. As we turned northwest we passed by the Circus Maximus or what is left of it. The political rally which clogged traffic in the Piazza della Republica yesterday was now assembled here, listening to speakers and converting the grounds into a replica of Denver International Airport!

The Circus Maximus

Our goal this time was Santa Maria in Cosmedin. which is the home of the “mouth of truth.” This sculpture is on the far end of the porch and legendarily proves whether one is a liar or not. There is a figure of a man’s head. One inserts one’s hand into the mouth. If the hand is withdrawn intact the person being tested is telling the truth. I passed the test!

Santa Maria in Cosmedin

The church is an Eastern Rite Church looking back to its being given to Greek refugees during the iconoclastic controversy in the East. For those interested in such things, the relics of St. Valentine are on one of the side altars. There are interesting mosaics and frescos. 

There was a Saturday market with really good looking food in a large building not far away. We looked around but did not fall into temptation. The restaurant next door did entice us since it was now well after two and lunch had to be procured. 

Saint George dressed for a wedding.

Right next to the restaurant was St. George’s Church. It was too handy and we could not pass it up. The pews were all covered in white, there were enormous bouquets of white roses along with festoons of the same twined around the pillars. The setting was lovely in this ancient church along with a violin rehearsing some beautiful music. 

Another view of the Forum with the city behind

I had to crash. Allergies have kicked in and I had very little sleep the night previous. I headed for the bus and the other two intrepid travelers continued on their way. Putting up my feet helped so I could join them for dinner down the street.