Above and below

The Basilica of St. Peter

Our day in Rome began with a Metro trip to the closest station near the Vatican City. We got to experience a little of the rush hour. That is something not especially to be desired. We were approached by a dozen or two persons selling tours promising to skip the lines. Arriving in St. Peter’s square (an odd name for an ellipse) we could see why many would opt for the “skipping the line” part. The security line stretched along Bernini’s colonnade, down one side and all across the piazza in from of the church! It must have involved an hour’s wait, at least. 

Interesting view of St. Peter

We had plenty of time before our appointment with the “scavi.” This is a trip to the excavations under St. Peter where the bones of St. Peter were discovered in the 1940s-50s. Our guide was excellent and explained why St. Peter’s is where it is. This site used to be outside the city of Rome. There was a “circus” here, an hippodrome dedicated to various games that would be played in front of large audiences. Such venues would be appropriate for the deaths of the condemned since these events were usually public spectacles. We seem shocked at the attitude the ancient Romans had towards those competing in the “games.” We seem to have not taken a look at ourselves when we cheer those who win and delight in “sports activities” that are prone to draw blood (football and hockey for 2). 

Two of the famous Swiss guards

A further proof was the placement of a necropolis in the same site. The dead were treated with reverence by the Romans and interred with honor in highly carved sarcophagi, or in alabaster jars for those who were cremated. By inscriptions and other evidence it has been decided that St. Peter was actually buried under the early St. Peter’s Church which was replaced by the baroque structure we see today. 

The famous Pieta

The trip we took today goes down below St. Peter’s to the catacombs which were underneath the original structure. To preserve the archeological digs, a limited number of people are allowed to enter (there were fewer than twelve of us). As our guide said it is like going into a mine. The air is very humid and the passages are narrow. No photos are allowed, so none appear here. Not my rule but theirs. 

The Holy Door at St. Peter's 

After completing the 2 hour tour we visited St. Peter’s Basilica since we had been through the very short line for security and were able to move freely. Dian and Nancy had not visited the sacristy and treasury so I suggested they see that collection. No photos there either!

Roman street scene

We walked across the Tiber and had lunch in a little cafe on an alley. It was a beautiful day so we decided to sit outside. Entertainment was provided by a group next to us who engaged in very loud and demonstrative “Italian” conversation. 

The three of us walked along to the Basilica of St. Augustine. This church is notable because of the presence of the tomb of St. Monica, St. Augustine’s mother. She was originally buried at Ostia Antica. She was instrumental in the conversion of her son and husband. St. Augustine is one of the doctors of the western church, very well known for his theological writings and his rule for monks. 

St. Monica's original sarcophagus 

Now we felt we had earned a gelato break and headed to Rome’s oldest ice cream parlor, Giolitti. Many others had the same idea. I had one scoop of dark chocolate and one of coconut. The coconut was very good but still not as good as the chocolate! Nothing is as good as the chocolate!

Newly energized we pressed on to the next goal that of the Church of Saint Maria Vittoria where there is the famous statue of St. Theresa in Ecstasy by Bernini. There is also a fresco by Raphael.

Rafael's fresco in the Church

St. Susanna, immediately across the street was our final goal for the day. It was, however, closed for remodeling. 

Heading back to the hotel we stopped at St. Mary of the Angels which is constructed by and also used parts of the Baths of Diocletian. The lights were being turned off as we entered so we thought we should leave post-haste. 

We walked a lot (16,000 some steps), saw a lot and ended the day with a delicious dinner at a trattoria just down the street from the hotel.

Tomorrow there will be more to see and more to learn. 

The organ at St. Maria della Vittoria