Pilgrimage to the birthplace

We needed to be packed, breakfasted, and on the bus by 8:15 this morning. This would be the morning that the lift in the hotel failed to operate. The sounds of roller bags going down the steps from the fourth to the ground floor echoed through the place. In the meantime, the lift repair people were madly trying to fix the thing. Well, perhaps madly is not the correct descriptive. They were there and looking at it and had some tools. Hopefully it will be repaired by the time we return.

Genaro and his bus began the journey to Spoleto with us on board. The usual traffic, a detour, a near crash with a lorry whose brake lights were not functioning correctly were all impediments to a speedy exit from the city. We are on our way to Norcia, known in English as Nursia. We arrived about 11 just as the rain was ending. This ancient town is in the area of Umbria known for its ham, sausage, and truffles. 

Saint Benedict

Here one finds the Basilica of St. Benedict which is built over the birthplace of St. Benedict and his twin sister St. Scholastica. There is a community of 19 Benedictine monks here which is a fairly new community. Although there had been a monastery here for hundreds of years, it closed in the 19th century. These monks have been here since the 1990s. 

Saint Scholastica

The church is pleasantly simply with some Baroque elements here and there but nothing overwhelming as one would see in Rome. We are to celebrate Mass here and that will be in the crypt right next to the small altar that marks the birthplace of the saints.

The crypt is very ancient, possible 1900 years old. This is determined by the stone work uncovered by archeologists which matches one of Nero’s palaces in the area. It is in the shape of a basilica, the “town hall” of the ancient Romans.  Many of these were repurposed by the Christians when the religion became legal and dominant. The abbot of the monastery spoke to us and explained that Benedict’s father was a government official assigned to this area, so it is entirely possible that the location of the birth of Benedict and Scholastica is here. Those who study such things (and I’ve heard this more than once) will say that a place that has been identified as a birth/death/other event location and has been a place of pilgrimage because of that for hundreds of years, is, in all likelihood, the place it claims to be.

The abbot spoke in his homily during the Mass about the need to listen. To listen not only to others, but to listen to what God is trying to say to you is necessary for peace. If we have our own ideas and refuse to listen to those of others it is impossible to learn from them. If we are at enmity and refuse to listen to one another we cannot have peace.

Blue Pasta/Green Pasta

Favio recommended that we try some of the local specialities for lunch. I had tortellini with black truffles. Another at my table had penne with vodka sauce which was bright blue. In spite of the color it was delicious. The tortellini with truffles was exquisite. Before lunch we shared a plate of various hams and sausages. It was all delicious, as well as the local sangiovese wine.

We walked to the entrance of the village to reboard the bus. Part of the charm of the place is that there is no vehicular traffic so it seems very silent. Italians are famous for driving with their horns. Not to hear those blasting every few seconds reminds one of what peace and quiet really is.

Off we went to Sant Eutizio Abbey which is said to have often 
been visited by Sts. Benedict and Scholastica, and their family. It is another ancient church built on 

San Eutizio

the hillside with a bell tower whose foundation is a very large rock. Underneath the relics of the saint there is a passage way. The legend has it if one goes through this passage on their stomach all of their bone problems will be cured. Most of us tried it. It remains to be seen whether or not the legend plays out.

Emerging from the "tunnel"

Our final destination today is Spoleto and the Hotel Albornoz Palace, a very nice, modern comfortable place, at which I believe we are about the only guests tonight and tomorrow night. My room is the same size as a king size room in an hotel in the US. That is very unusual for a European hotel. The bath is equal in size to a US bathroom as well. Right now I’m looking forward to giving the bed a try.

Evening sky at Spoleto