A paucity of pictures but a bevy to behold.

Given the allergy attack I suffered yesterday, I had little hopes for sleep. I was wrong! After 8 hours, mostly interrupted, I awoke refreshed. 

Our plan for today is to attend the 10:30 Mass at St. Paul’s within the Walls, go to the Villa Borghese, view the galleries and attend an organ recital.

The apse of St. Paul's within the walls.

St. Paul’s within the Walls is the Anglican/Episcopal Church in Rome. In addition there is a chapel at the Anglican Centre. We arrived at the church with ease since it is only 1.5 blocks from the hotel. We were greeted warmly. Today was not only Sunday, but it was the renewal of the wedding vows of a Nigerian couple who make this their parish home.

I am assuming that renewal in this sense has to do with the religious ceremony following the civil marriage ceremony, but I’m not sure. The “bride and groom” entered with the choir during the first hymn. The Eucharist proceeded as usual. The preacher drew a reference between this Sunday’s gospel of the wedding feast when the invited had excuses and did not attend, and his own personal experience. It was a very well done homily. The preacher was enthusiastic and engaging. Following the Creed the couple “renewed” their vows. The Peace was a real exchange with a loving Christian family. This was, in my opinion, “real liturgy,” the work of the people of God. I loved the way both bride and groom enthusiastically answered the celebrants questions.

The back wall of St. Paul's

Two of the hymns sung were Nigerian in heritage as well as the Lamb of God. What we experienced was a successful melding of western American Prayer Book, Nigerian hymnody, Anglican chant all done with the spirit present and evident in the community. There was nothing phony or “put on” about the celebration. 

A quick trip back to the hotel for a change of clothes and then off to the bus to see the art gallery known as the Villa Borghese,

In his own villa one of the Borgheses, who had become a cardinal secretary of state thanks to his uncle Pope Paul V, assembled a priceless collection of statuary and painting. It is also in one of the most beautiful buildings and art galleries in the western world. No pictures are allowed, hence, there are none. The first floor is basically statuary. There are several Bernini sculptures which show his evolution into Baroque. The ceilings all have paintings. The second floor is paintings by the great masters including Caravaggio, Raphael, Rubens, etc., all hung in wonderfully decorated rooms. It is not a large museum but exquisitely done.

We then sallied forth down the Via Veneto back to our hotel for a few minutes of rest. Then we were off to an organ recital at the Pressede. The church is currently attempting to raise funds for the remodeling of the pipe organ. The organist was a fairly young man, which is good to see. The US has a difficult time getting young persons interested in studying organ, probably because of the dearth of positions available and the disregard in which many church musicians are held.

After a late dinner and walk back to the hotel, it was time to retire.

The Borghese villa